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How to grow Cucumbers

Sweet, succulent, home-grown cucumbers are definitely one of the vegetables that taste completely different from those bought at supermarkets. Not only do they taste good when freshly picked but contain many nutrients beneficial to health. Cucumbers are low in calories and have a low Glycemic index value. Low-GI diets are associated with decreased risk of cardiovascular disease. If you have never tried growing them it is well worth giving them a go.

cucumber 1

Once they had the reputation of being ‘difficult’ but if you give them the conditions they like, you will have more cucumbers than you can eat. Two plants are adequate for an average family but you will have a glut of them and they cannot be frozen; so plenty for friends and family.

There are two kinds of cucumber, some grown outside in a sunny, protected spot in the garden, and others grown in the greenhouse, both cultivated differently. Cucumber seeds, whichever variety, are sown in March and April but the outdoor varieties can also be sown direct in the garden from May to June. Sow one seed per 3″ pot of good quality compost and place in a propagator at 20ºC. Seedlings should appear in 7-10 days. Grow them on in a light situation, but not direct sunlight, until they are large enough to transplant. They are happiest at a temperature of about 15 ºC.

cucumber 2

Greenhouse varieties

These can be grown in:

  • large pots, the bigger the better but 16″ minimum
  • grow-bags, 2 per bag
  • the greenhouse border, 18″ apart.

Although cucumbers are naturally trailing plants they will be more productive if they are trained to climb by way of a supporting 6ft cane or vertical string. Tie in the main shoot until it reaches the top of the cane then pinch out the growing tip.

The flowers soon start to develop tiny fruit and at this stage shorten the side shoots to encourage better cropping. If you haven’t chosen F1 Female-only cucumbers you must be diligent in removing all the male flowers as these cause the cucumber taste to be bitter. It is easy to distinguish the two. Female flowers have a bulge below them and male ones are attached to a thin stalk without a bulge.

cucumber 3

 

Outdoor varieties

The ground should be well prepared in advance. Dig some rich compost into a 12″ hole and mound it up to allow water to drain away. Cut the bottom off a plastic bottle and insert it at one side of the hole for watering and feeding purposes. Sow two or three seeds in the top of the mound or use young plants which are widely available.
Outdoor cucumbers need not be tied to a cane, you can just let them scramble. Unfortunately, slugs love young cucumbers as well as we do so you could lift the stems off the ground by a low frame to keep the fruits away from the beasties.

cucumber 4

Pinch out the main stem after 7 or 8 leaves have appeared and this will encourage side shoots to develop and give you more fruits.

Feeding and watering

Throughout the growing stage of the cucumber fruits, feed every two weeks with a tomato food or any good high potash plant food. Keep the plants well watered but don’t allow the stem to be waterlogged. After about 12 weeks you should be harvesting your first delicious cucumbers.

cucumber 5

Harvesting

Cucumbers are best harvested in the cool of the morning. Cut the fruit with secateurs or a sharp knife and harvest when they are young as older bigger fruits can become a bit bitter. Remember that the more you pick the more you get. Production would reduce considerably if you left any on the plant to develop into very large fruits.

Published June 15th, 2015 by Jordan. Article ref 3798

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